Novigrad via Grožnjan

Sunday 22 September

Well here we are marina-side having a drink (as always?) in the seaside town of Novigrad.

This is a really pretty place. I know, I keep saying this, but I have to say I like it in some ways more than Rovinj which everyone RAVES about. This is because Novigrad is VERY laid-back.

We walked early in Rovinj this morning.

My Friend entertained himself watching an enormous cruise ship moor (Knud: big ropes, big bow-thrusters - eat your heart out!).

We had a late breakfast which was very tasty. Robert came and collected our bags and took them away down the stairs to the car which he brought from its secret overnight parking spot and drove us out of the Old Town.

We were then on our way to Grožnjan up high in the Istrian hills. Firstly, we stopped at the Limski "fiord" (a term used loosely I would have to say) but also known locally as "kanal". It is actually a valley that stretches 35 kms inland to Pazin.

We are now doing a circle: we started in Poreč in Croatia (the day we collected our 2nd car) and drove to the hill-top town of Motovun (where My Friend had his epic drive into the town).

The next day (yesterday), we drove from Motovun down and out of the hills to Rovinj (on the coast). Now we have driven back up towards - and past Poreč - to Novigrad on the coast but via the Istrian hills again so as to visit Grožnjan.

After the Lim Bay (another name for the Limski Canal), we stopped at Sv Lovrec for a coffee (nothing else here but a nondescript cafè but we had the BEST coffee since arriving in Croatia - thanks Trace & Pat).

We CLIMBED to Grožnjan (or Grisignana, is its Italian name) which is on the other side of the Mirna valley from Motovun. It is an ancient hill village that was severely depopulated during the Italian exodus after World War II and given a new lease of life in the 1970s when many of its properties were offered to artists and musicians as studios. We had a cheese platter and wine (Teran of course, for me; nice mixed, non-alcoholic drink for My Friend who is driving - but passed on the cheese platter; frankly, I'm a truffle over truffles ...). Enjoyed walking around looking at the galleries.

Then about 3.30 p.m. we drove down to Novigrad - where we are chilling.

And a great sunset - again.

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Well, we have just returned from THE most SENSATIONAL meal. I am NOT a great fan of seafood, but THIS was AMAAAAAZING! The restaurant: Damir & Ornella. I had to keep pinching myself that I was having this meal in Novigrad.

The wine - another Teran: Kabola Vrhunsko 2008* - was sooooo beautiful we actually drank an entire bottle.

There was NO menu. They just brought out tiny courses. They do RAW fish here (ughhh!) - I drew the line at this, so any course that was raw, I got a different dish that was cooked. Everything was just superb. Delicate, delicious. The raw fish was filleted at the table in front of us. The entire thing was a performance. Finished with the most incredible desserts. I had a white chocolate and pear tart. I don't think I've ever had anything so sublime. I walked out of there having had enough to eat and yet not at all full. Just wonderful.

* wine notes: 2009 Kabola 2008 http://www.kabola.hr/en/wines/teran