Just got internet after 24 hours without. Will be brief for now as we have just arrived at the seaside location of Lovran (via Pula - but more about Pula later).
This is the view from our hotel room here!
Just had the most sensational drive up from Pula on the road, hugging the coast from Plomin (about half-way between Pula and here). Like the Amalfi coast, but without the drivers!
The Lungomare walk from here to the next town beckons! Will continue this blog again later.
But first here's a photo for Sally:
And Fran, you wanted a photo of a "local". Well, to be frank, I don't know how you define a "local" here; there are Croats, Italians and some regard themselves as Istrians almost as if Istria is not part of Croatia. But I could not resist this little old darling today:
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We have just got in from walking one of the three sections of the Lungomare from Lovran to Ičići (don't ask me how you pronounce that!); and then dinner at Wine Bar Loza, hidden away in the Old Town away from the sea. Well, what a sensational afternoon/evening!
The walk was so lovely - so scenic. We passed villas, some still glorious, some derelict; sunbathers; walkers of all descriptions; bars; inlets and marinas; rock pools and beaches; and views out to the Adriatic all the way.
Then dinner - well, wow! The wines were wonderful; the restauranteur so knowledgeable and helpful; the food - divine. We had a primi piatti of stuffed chilli peppers with anchovies and goats cheese to start (which we shared) and then My Friend had a delicious chicken risotto with veg; andme - braised venison in puff pastry.
The wines were Croatian. I have to say they make a good red wine here! My Friend had a Babić Žuki 2008 - and liked it so much he stuck with this. I had (yet another Teran) Cuj & then an absolutely superb Cab Sauvignon & Merlot Boškinac (a Dalmation wine - from the Island of Pag; winemaker Boris Šuljić). Just found this website - it's a good one:
http://myhiddencroatia.com/my-travel-tales/
And this was after drinks at Ičići by the sea and then another drink at Lovran at another bar overlooking the Adriatic Sea.
Finished off with a very yummy gelato on our walk back to our hotel.
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Earlier today:
Drove to Pula this morning where the tip had been to park near the station. But where was the station?
After a few attempts to find out failed, even using my picture card of a train and making choo-choo noises(!), I finally hit the jackpot with a younger woman walking her dogs who said to follow her back to her place and she'd come with us in the car to lead the way! So we did - and she did - and then we drove her back home and then re-traced our steps. Sounds complicated, but it worked.
Hence, we set off on foot, having found a place to park the car, to discover Pula. According to legend, the Colchidians founded Pula after the pursuit of the Argonauts and their leader Jason who stole the precious Golden Fleece from the Colchidians.
We spent about 3 hours or more doing the tourist thing including of course the spectacular arena:
And the mosaic floor (in the most underwhelming location almost hidden by a shop selling souvenirs and towels ...); an old Byzantine church in disrepair; and the Cafè Uliks where our old friend James Joyce (who arrived here in 1904 from Ireland before moving on to Trieste) used to teach by the Roman Arch (the Arch of Sergius).
Despite Pula being a sprawling industrial port and the largest city in Istria, the treasure of this city is the amphitheatre (or arena) which is still used for stage spectacles for stars like Placido Domingo and Elton John - and has seating for 5000. It is the 6th largest and best preserved of ampitheatres anywhere.
In one of the exhibition rooms here, there is one of the best amphora collections anywhere. These are the ancient vessels used to store wine and oil.
A German student took this rather charming photo of us:
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