Ljubljana

Sunday 15 September

About a 40 km ride in today from Škofja Loka. I ‘whizzed’ through the laneways of town on leaving but immediately made a navigational error and disappeared up the wrong valley to Puštal where I then went off-piste UP in an effort to correct this error but ended at a gravel road so back-tracked to Škofa where I picked up the correct road and then had some easy riding on a quiet road (away from the main road to Ljubljana) via little towns and, apart from a busy section back on the main road between Medvode and Medno, I had a good trip in - despite rain on the outskirts of Ljubljana. I was greatly aided by a girl who I bought coffee from in Medno who gave directions which led me to a bike path all the way into the city.

Would have to say it was overall a satisfactory ride but nothing mind-blowing - was just good to find the way in on my own (with the help of locals). I feel quite chuffed to have done it as navigationally (with respect to avoiding man roads) I was 95% successful - not bad without any maps.

Ljubljana is the capital of Slovenia. It's main centre is very compact along both sides of the Ljubljanica River which is crossed by many bridges, the most famous being the Triple Bridge & the Dragon Bridge.

We contacted our B&B (our first use of AirBnB) and luckily the car could be parked there. The city is packed with tourists and there is no obvious parking. We are located right in the centre just below the castle.

Next, a visit to the cathedral. This is My Friend's shot:

Had a delicious (!) apple strudel & coffee at a nearby cafe.

And then wandered the Old Town.

A market was on in full swing (My Friend’s photo here:)

After our 2 p.m. check-in (during which we got a video call from Al on the Camino in Spain - what great timing! - and, I have to admit, greatly put my mind at rest as we had not heard anything from the time she set out on the French side of the Pyrenees to walk up to Roncesvalles), we took the funicular railway up to the Castle. Very good set-up there with chapel, great views of the city, interesting exhibits, restaurants. We were very impressed.

Back down and we had a drink at a nearby bar and wandered some more before going into the Old Town for a meal at Julija which was recommended from several sources. It was a wonderful meal. Probably the best we've had so far here - good service, great food and wine (Kristančič: it was very good - http://en.kristancic.com/; we had the merlot & cab sauvignon). For my dessert I had a Gibanica and have to say it was nicer than the one at the restaurant at Bled Castle - much lighter, lovely!

Afterwards we wandered around some more, back across the Cobbler's Bridge:

And past the restaurants lining the river, a rock concert in a park, lights everywhere - a very pretty, relaxed city. And they say it is dead on a Sunday!

My Friend got some good night shots.

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Briefly, a potted history of Ljubljana:

The dragon is a big deal here. One story has it that it was slayed by Jason (of Argonauts fame) on his way through with the Golden Fleece. But another story is that it was adopted by St George, the patron saint of the chapel at the Castle, in the 15th century.

Closer to our time (?) - in 1918 - the region was joined by the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. In WWII (in 1941) Italy occupied the city followed by Germany in 1943. After WWII, Ljubljana became the capital of The Socialist Republic of Slovenia (part of communist Yugoslavia under Tito) until independence in 1991.

There is a lot of pride in this country. In the Town Hall today was an exhibition applauding the country's basketballers, although it was as the Yugoslavian team that they achieved their greatest success with a gold medal at the 1980 Olympics.

In rowing too they have had great success. In fact, at Lake Bled there was a rowing centre with large placards celebrating the success of their Olympic teams. Indeed, the recent London Olympics was the 6th for rower Iztok Čop (partnered with Luka Špik who has also won gold and silver previously) in the double sculls.